Tuesday, October 20, 2009

My favorite bakeries (Mexican edition)

What is the most delicious Spanish word I've learned in California?

Panaderia (bakery) it is.

Every time I walk past a Mexican bakery, I can't help but step inside, grab a tray and a pair of tongs, and start piling breads and pastries onto the tray as if I were hypnotized. I can easily spend half an hour checking out the selections and deciding what to get. The low prices certainly don't help. Since I am often the only non-Latino in the store and unable to speak Spanish, I have more than once attracted interesting gazes from the cashier and other customers alike.

I knew almost nothing about Mexican baking before moving to the Bay area. My only exposure had been a type of sweet bun called "Mexican bun" commonly found in bakeries in Hong Kong. I had no idea how the Mexican bun was introduced to Hong Kong, but it does resemble the pan dulce (sweet bun) that I see in Mexican bakeries. Talk about cultural amalgamation!

I love pan dulces for similar reasons I like Asian buns - most are soft and not too sweet. But pan dulces are denser and more filling than their Asian counterparts because of their heavy use of eggs and margarine. After eating a couple of these goodies, I hardly have room for anything else for the rest of the day or even the next morning. They are diet busters for sure, I don't even want to think about the amount of carbs and fats (trans, hydrogenated, all the bad stuff) they contain.


(Forgive my limited Spanish)
Two pan dulces (the one with the sugar coating should be called concha, which literally means shell) and a flat cookie sprinkled with sesame seeds


Cuerno (croissant), Mexican cheesecake slice, another pan dulce sprinkled with sugar

This sounds incredible to me too, but I've sampled more than a dozen of Mexican bakeries from the Peninsula, San Francisco's Mission District, all the way to Oakland in the East Bay. My favorites: Panaderia Hernandez in South San Francisco and La Flor De Michoacan in San Mateo near where I live. I've bought from both bakeries enough times that the cashiers can probably recognize me.


My favorite panaderia -  Panaderia Hernandez in South San Francisco


Panaderia Hernandez's overflowing pastry case

Both bakeries offer incredible selections of freshly baked pan dulces, cakes, and cookies. Their pan dulces are just right with their sweetness and richness, so you don't need to wash them down with water/tea/coffee. They are also not too dry - I learned from a book that this can easily be a problem due to the high proportion of yeast in the dough.

Most important, the vast majority of their pan dulces do not seem to contain lard. I still cannot spot it all the time, but as a vegetarian I try to avoid it, and I am really put off by its smell.

If I had to pick the better among the two, it would be Panaderia Hernandez. Their pastries have a more delicate taste, likely because they are made from better ingredients (you don't get the off-taste). Their sizes are HUGE, but strangely enough they are cheaper too, even though the bakery is inside an upscale-ish Mexican supermarket. Too bad it's at an out-of-the-way location, but I continue to plan trips just to visit it!

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Bay area mooncake showdown

Writing this blog often has given me many excuses to eat more sweets than I should. Case in point: my mooncake tastings for the Mid Autumn Festival.

As I mentioned in my last post, I am pretty impressed by the caliber of Asian bakeries in Oakland. I had been waiting in earnest for their mooncakes to come out because mooncakes, of all Chinese baked goods, often showcase the best of a baker's skills. I know little about how mooncakes are made, but the vast majority of mooncakes I had before tasted flatly sweet or had too much oil in them, and it's really hard to run into a really good one. (Note: I am referring to Cantonese-style mooncakes that are round-shaped, have a thin, golden-brown baked shell, and usually filled with sweet lotus seed paste, but there are many other variations.)

For my test, I tasted mooncakes from 5 bakeries in the Bay area: Sheng Kee in San Mateo, Napoleon Super Bakery, Big Dish (actually more like a restaurant than bakery), Ruby King, and Delicieuse Princesse in Oakland's Chinatown. I don't like the egg yolk that is traditionally part of the mooncake filling, so the ones I picked were all egg yolk-free. Partly because of this, they were cheaper ranging from $2 for a mini mooncake to $4.5 for a regular-sized one. Each mooncake had a different flavor - the fillings range from lotus seed paste, red (adzuki) bean paste, purple yam, coconut, to black sesame paste.

Here's the verdict:

BEST - Delicieuse Princesse's coconut mooncake ($4.5). Although it is also the most expensive, you get your money's worth because you can SEE the shredded coconut filling and actually TASTE it. The filling has texture and is not blended with disproportionate amounts of sugar and oil. I may be partial to anything that contains coconut, but Delicieuse Princesse's pastries rarely miss the mark. My only complaint: the shell was a bit dry.


Ruby King's red bean paste mooncake and Delicieuse Princesse's coconut mooncake

SECOND PLACE - Ruby King's red bean paste ($3.25) and lotus seed paste ($3.75) mooncakes. With their moist, shiny outer shell and sweet, dense filling, they are what you expect from a decent mooncake. Bonus point to Ruby King for incorporating walnut pieces into the filling to provide some contrast.


Ruby King Bakery in Oakland's Chinatown

ABOVE AVERAGE - Big Dish's black sesame paste mooncake ($3.25) and Sheng Kee's date paste and tea-infused chestnut paste mooncakes ($2 each for a mini version). Both bakeries should be applauded for their unconventional flavors. But Big Dish's is too greasy, while Sheng Kee's don't taste fresh enough. Given Sheng Kee is one of the largest Asian bakery chains in the Bay area, it probably mass produced its mooncake months before. You can't hide this from a discerning palate though. When you think about it, $2 for a mini-mooncake is quite pricey too.


(Clockwise from top left) Sheng Kee's date paste mooncake, tea-infused chestnut paste mooncake, and two bonus treats: slice of Swiss roll and sponge cake sandwich

LOSER - Napoleon Super Bakery's purple yam mooncake ($3). This is surprising because its pastries are normally quite good. The problem with this mooncake is that the filling hardly tastes of yam; instead I feel like I am putting a lump of sugar and grease into my mouth. I hope it didn't add coloring to the filling! Other than purple yam, Napoleon has many other interesting flavors including kumquat and mango, but I didn't get to try them.


Big Dish's black sesame paste mooncake and Napoleon Super Bakery's purple yam mooncake, and a fish-shaped pastry to symbolize abundance

Well, now you know how many mooncakes I ate during this Mid Autumn Festival...

ShareThis