Drenched in vanilla and cinnamon

My pan de muerto, fresh from the oven

What better time than the holidays to forget about dieting and go all out for decadent treats? The problem is I already indulge myself year-round. In late October I attended a Mexican bread making workshop, and I still feel guilty about the ridiculous amounts of butter and sugar we used to make our bread.

La Cocina, San Francisco’s food entrepreneur incubator, organized the Day of the Dead (Dia de los Muerto) traditional bread workshop. I like Mexican bread for its dense, scone-like texture and was curious to know how it’s made. The opportunity to bake my own bread and taste it fresh from the oven was too good to pass.

Chef Luis of Chaac Mool Yucatecan Food, a beneficiary of La Cocina, was our instructor. More than 20 of us made it to La Cocina’s kitchen in the Mission District on a weekday night, wore the apron provided to us, and listened attentively to Chef Luis’s introduction of the pan de muerto (Bread of the Dead) traditions and the recipes we would be making.

Dia de los Muerto offerings on a makeshift altar

Pan de muerto, a type of yeasted sweet bread, is offered to the dead as part of the Dia De Los Muerto celebrations. Mexican families set up an altar in their homes and present deceased family and friends with their favorite foods and beverages. The occasion is meant to be festive and not somber – just look at the colorful paper-cut decorations on the altar.

Because Chef Luis doesn’t speak English, a translator repeated what he said in Spanish in English. Although I don’t understand Spanish, I could tell Chef Luis, in his crisp chef uniform, spoke assertively and eloquently. La Cocina does a great service helping immigrant entrepreneurs like Chef Luis tap into their culinary talents and broaden the reach of their home-country cuisines in the Bay Area. He now runs a Yucatan food stand in San Francisco’s Fort Mason Center.

Chef Luis and his translator addressing the group

We first made the standard pan de muerto. Chef Luis already mixed and leavened the dough for us, and each of us got a ball of dough. Suffice to say that the dough contained a lot of sugar, butter, milk, and eggs. There's also a hint of citrus because of the lemon and orange zests and juices mixed into it.

We took some extra dough and rolled it into decorations for the bread. Never good at crafts, I placed a simple cross on top of my dough. Then I sprinkled some sesame seeds onto it.

Finished decorating the dough and chilling

My pan de muerto before baking with the cross on top

After placing our pan de muerto into the oven, we moved on to the next recipe: pan patas de crema. Chef Luis said this sweet bread is his family specialty. We first made a cinnamon cream by mixing cinnamon, sugar, vanilla extract, butter, and flour together, then rolled the same dough we used for the pan de muerto over the cream.

Because the cinnamon cream was too watery and didn’t stick to the dough initially, we had to keep adding butter and flour to the cream. It’s unbelievable how much butter we used.

Our hands were all dirty and smelled of vanilla and cinnamon by the time we shaped the dough into a log (maybe this is why the bread is called pan patas because patas means limbs in Spanish). Chef Luis suggested that we brush the dough with more cinnamon cream to give the bread a golden-brown color. I was still coming to terms with the high-fat, high-sugar content of the dough so I resisted.

Chef Luis’s family specialty: pan patas de crema

Pan patas de crema out of the oven

After the pan patas de crema went into the oven, we finally had dinner. Coincidentally, the woman next to me and I were the only vegetarians in the group. Our dinner platter consisted of mushrooms cooked in cheese, refried beans, a tostada – all topped with a black, mole-like chimole sauce. Chimole is a Yucatan condiment made from chili peppers, onion, garlic, spices and has a smoky flavor. The non-vegetarians got turkey.

Vegetarian dinner platter: mushrooms, cheese, refried beans, and tostada in chimole sauce

The dinner was decent but no match for the ever-stronger smell of fresh baked bread wafting through the kitchen. Out of the oven, the breads were huge with a hard surface. We were like kids marveling at our creations and taking pictures. This might be the best part of baking: the magical feeling of creating something delicious out of such simple ingredients as flour, butter, and sugar.

Because Whole Foods was a sponsor of the event (most of the ingredients were from its 365 brand), we all left with a Whole Foods shopping bag to carry our bread. The bread was warm and supposedly we should let it cool before eating, but the smell of vanilla and cinnamon won over my self-control.

As I walked to the 24th Street BART station,  I couldn’t stop nibbling on the crunchy coating and dense interior of the pan patas de crema. I finished the entire loaf of bread when I arrived at the station. Guess how long I could keep my hands off the pan de muerto for the rest of my trip home.